Table of Contents

Route: Denver to Durango to Mesa Verde and Back

Theme: High Desert History
Highlights: Mesa Verde National Park, Million Dollar Highway, Great Sand Dunes National Park

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Introduction

The rugged landscapes of Southwest Colorado offer an unforgettable journey through a region rich in history, culture, and natural beauty. This "High Desert History" road trip takes you from the urban hub of Denver through the majestic Rocky Mountains, the high desert landscapes of Durango, and the ancient ruins of Mesa Verde. Along the way, you'll traverse scenic byways like the famous Million Dollar Highway and explore the towering dunes of Great Sand Dunes National Park. This loop through Southwest Colorado is a deep dive into the history of the Ancestral Puebloans, the beauty of the Rocky Mountains, and the stark contrasts of the high desert.

Personal Insights from William Stanek:
"The Southwest Colorado Loop is a journey through some of the most diverse and dramatic landscapes in the American West. From the towering peaks of the Rockies to the ancient ruins of Mesa Verde, this road trip offers a chance to connect with the rich history and natural beauty of the region. Hui Cha and I have always been drawn to the contrasts of Southwest Colorado - the way the high desert meets the mountains, and the way history is etched into the land. We hope this guide inspires you to explore these remarkable places, to walk in the footsteps of the Ancestral Puebloans, and to experience the stunning beauty of the Southwest."

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Day 1: Denver to Great Sand Dunes National Park

Morning: Departure from Denver

• Overview: Begin your journey in Denver, Colorado's vibrant capital, known for its arts scene, craft breweries, and stunning views of the Rocky Mountains. After breakfast, set out on a 4-hour drive southwest to Great Sand Dunes National Park. The route takes you through the scenic foothills of the Rockies and into the San Luis Valley, one of Colorado's most stunning and least visited regions.
• Recommended Stops:
  • Garden of the Gods (Colorado Springs): If you have time, consider a stop at this famous park known for its towering red rock formations and stunning views of Pikes Peak.

Lunch Stop: Alamosa, CO

• Lunch Recommendations:
  1. The Rubi Slipper: A local favorite offering a menu of classic American dishes, including burgers, sandwiches, and salads, served in a cozy, small-town setting.
  2. San Luis Valley Brewing Company: Known for its craft beers and pub fare, including burgers, steaks, and fresh salads, with a relaxed, family-friendly atmosphere.
  3. Calvillo's Mexican Restaurant: A popular spot offering a range of traditional Mexican dishes, perfect for a satisfying lunch before heading to the dunes.

Afternoon: Arrive at Great Sand Dunes National Park

• Overview: Arrive at Great Sand Dunes National Park in the early afternoon, where you can spend the rest of the day exploring the park's unique landscapes. The park is home to the tallest sand dunes in North America, set against the backdrop of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. The contrast between the towering dunes and the rugged mountains creates a dramatic and otherworldly landscape.
• Recommended Scenic Stops:
  • Dunes Overlook Trail: A short hike that takes you to a viewpoint overlooking the vast expanse of the sand dunes, offering stunning panoramic views.
  • Medano Creek: In the spring and early summer, this shallow, seasonal creek flows at the base of the dunes, offering a refreshing place to cool off and a fun spot for kids to play.
  • High Dune: For a more challenging hike, consider climbing to the top of High Dune, one of the tallest dunes in the park. The climb is strenuous but offers unbeatable views from the summit.
• Photography Tips: "The Great Sand Dunes are a photographer's paradise - capture the play of light and shadow on the dunes, the striking contrast between the sand and the mountains, and the unique patterns created by the wind. Sunrise and sunset are the best times for photography, with soft, warm light and long shadows."

Evening: Spend the evening near Great Sand Dunes National Park, where you can enjoy dinner at a local restaurant and perhaps take a sunset walk on the dunes.

• Dining Recommendations:
  1. Great Sand Dunes Oasis Restaurant: Located just outside the park, offering a menu of American comfort food and local specialties, perfect for a casual, family-friendly meal.
  2. The Grille at Zapata Ranch: Offering a farm-to-table dining experience with a focus on local, sustainable ingredients, served in a rustic, elegant setting.
  3. San Luis Valley Pizza Company (Alamosa): Known for its creative pizzas and casual atmosphere, perfect for a relaxed dinner after a day of exploring.
• Accommodation Options:
  1. Great Sand Dunes Lodge: Located just outside the park, offering comfortable accommodations with stunning views of the dunes and mountains.
  2. Zapata Ranch: A luxurious guest ranch offering unique accommodations, gourmet dining, and a range of outdoor activities, including horseback riding and guided hikes.
  3. Camping at Pinon Flats Campground: For those who prefer camping, this campground within the park offers beautiful views and easy access to the dunes.

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Day 2: Great Sand Dunes to Durango via Pagosa Springs

Morning: Drive to Durango via Pagosa Springs

• Overview: After breakfast, set out on a 4-hour drive to Durango, with a scenic detour through Pagosa Springs. This route takes you through the rugged San Juan Mountains, offering stunning views and opportunities for outdoor adventures. Pagosa Springs is famous for its hot springs and beautiful mountain scenery, making it a perfect stop along the way.
• Recommended Stops:
  • Pagosa Springs Hot Springs: Relax and soak in the natural hot springs, which are believed to have healing properties. The springs are located along the San Juan River, offering beautiful views of the surrounding mountains.

Lunch Stop: Pagosa Springs, CO

• Lunch Recommendations:
  1. The Lost Cajun: A unique spot offering Southern and Cajun dishes, including gumbo, jambalaya, and po'boys, with a fun, laid-back atmosphere.
  2. Riff Raff Brewing Company: Known for its craft beers and creative pub fare, including burgers, tacos, and sandwiches, with a riverside patio.
  3. Alley House Grille: Offering a menu of contemporary American dishes with a focus on fresh, local ingredients, served in a historic building with a cozy atmosphere.

Afternoon: Arrive in Durango

• Overview: Arrive in Durango in the early afternoon, where you can spend the rest of the day exploring this historic mountain town. Durango is known for its well-preserved 19th-century architecture, vibrant arts scene, and outdoor activities. The town's rich history as a mining and railroad hub adds to its charm and character.
• Recommended Scenic Stops:
  • Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad Museum: Explore the history of the famous narrow-gauge railroad that connected Durango and Silverton, with exhibits on the region's mining and railroad history.
  • Historic Downtown Durango: Stroll through Durango's historic downtown area, with its well-preserved Victorian-era buildings, unique shops, art galleries, and restaurants.
  • Animas River Trail: Enjoy a leisurely walk or bike ride along the Animas River, with beautiful views of the surrounding mountains and opportunities for wildlife viewing.
• Photography Tips: "Durango's historic downtown and the surrounding San Juan Mountains offer endless opportunities for photography - capture the charm of the Victorian architecture, the vibrant life along the Animas River, and the stunning mountain vistas. The golden hour is perfect for photographing the town's historic buildings and the river."

Evening: Spend the evening in Durango, where you can enjoy dinner at one of the town's many excellent restaurants and perhaps take in some live music or a performance.

• Dining Recommendations:
  1. The Ore House: A Durango institution known for its steaks, seafood, and creative cocktails, served in a historic building with a warm, rustic atmosphere.
  2. El Moro Spirits & Tavern: Offering a menu of contemporary American dishes with a focus on local ingredients, craft cocktails, and a lively, historic setting.
  3. Ken & Sue's: A popular spot offering a range of American and international dishes, including fresh seafood, steaks, and vegetarian options, with a cozy, inviting atmosphere.
• Accommodation Options:
  1. The Strater Hotel: A historic hotel in downtown Durango, offering elegant accommodations, period furnishings, and a rich history dating back to the late 1800s.
  2. The Rochester Hotel & Leland House: A charming boutique hotel offering comfortable accommodations, a central location, and a warm, welcoming atmosphere.
  3. Durango KOA Holiday: For those who prefer camping, this campground offers a range of accommodations, including cabins and RV sites, with beautiful views of the surrounding mountains.

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Day 3: Durango to Mesa Verde National Park and Million Dollar Highway

Morning: Drive to Mesa Verde National Park

• Overview: After breakfast, set out on a 1-hour drive west to Mesa Verde National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most significant archaeological sites in the United States. The park is home to thousands of Ancestral Puebloan cliff dwellings, many of which are remarkably well-preserved. A visit to Mesa Verde offers a unique opportunity to explore the history and culture of the ancient peoples who once lived in this region.
• Recommended Scenic Stops:
  • Cliff Palace: The largest and most famous cliff dwelling in Mesa Verde, offering guided tours that take you up close to the ancient structures and provide insight into the lives of the Ancestral Puebloans.
  • Spruce Tree House: One of the best-preserved cliff dwellings in the park, accessible by a short hike from the Chapin Mesa Archaeological Museum.
  • Balcony House: A more adventurous guided tour that includes climbing ladders and crawling through tunnels to explore this cliff dwelling, offering a unique and immersive experience.
• Photography Tips: "Mesa Verde's cliff dwellings are a photographer's dream - capture the intricate details of the ancient stone structures, the dramatic setting of the cliffside villages, and the stunning views of the surrounding landscape. Early morning and late afternoon light provide the best conditions for photography, with warm, golden tones and soft shadows."

Lunch Stop: Far View Terrace cafe (Mesa Verde)

• Lunch Recommendations:
  1. Far View Terrace cafe: Located within the park, offering a menu of sandwiches, salads, and snacks, perfect for a quick and convenient lunch before continuing your exploration of Mesa Verde.

Afternoon: Drive the Million Dollar Highway to Ouray

• Overview: After visiting Mesa Verde, embark on one of the most scenic drives in the United States - the Million Dollar Highway. This stretch of U.S. Route 550 between Silverton and Ouray takes you through the heart of the San Juan Mountains, offering breathtaking views, hairpin turns, and the opportunity to explore historic mining towns. The drive is known for its stunning vistas and dramatic mountain scenery.
• Recommended Scenic Stops:
  • Silverton, CO: A historic mining town with well-preserved 19th-century buildings, unique shops, and a fascinating history. Take some time to explore the town and learn about its mining heritage.
  • Red Mountain Pass: One of the highest and most scenic passes on the Million Dollar Highway, offering panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valleys.
  • Box Canyon Falls (Ouray): A short hike takes you to a stunning waterfall tucked into a narrow box canyon, with dramatic cliffs and thundering water.
• Photography Tips: "The Million Dollar Highway offers some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in Colorado - capture the dramatic vistas, the winding road, and the colorful cliffs and peaks of the San Juan Mountains. The high elevations and narrow roads make for exhilarating driving and stunning photography opportunities."

Evening: Arrive in Ouray, known as the "Switzerland of America" for its stunning mountain setting and charming, historic downtown. Spend the evening exploring the town, soaking in the local hot springs, and enjoying dinner at a local restaurant.

• Dining Recommendations:
  1. Bon Ton Restaurant: A popular spot offering Italian-inspired cuisine with a focus on fresh, local ingredients, served in a cozy, historic setting.
  2. Brickhouse 737: Known for its creative American dishes, craft cocktails, and lively atmosphere, with a menu that highlights local flavors and ingredients.
  3. Outlaw Restaurant: A classic steakhouse offering hearty portions of steaks, ribs, and seafood, served in a rustic, Western-themed setting.
• Accommodation Options:
  1. Beaumont Hotel & Spa: A historic, luxurious hotel offering elegant accommodations, a full-service spa, and a prime location in the heart of Ouray.
  2. Ouray Chalet Inn: A comfortable and affordable option offering well-appointed rooms and a convenient location within walking distance of downtown Ouray.
  3. Twin Peaks Lodge & Hot Springs: Offering comfortable accommodations, a range of amenities, and access to Ouray's famous hot springs.

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Day 4: Ouray to Black Canyon of the Gunnison and Back to Denver

Morning: Drive to Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

• Overview: After breakfast, set out on a 1.5-hour drive northeast to Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, known for its steep, dramatic cliffs and deep, narrow canyons carved by the Gunnison River. The park offers some of the most striking and rugged landscapes in Colorado, with opportunities for hiking, wildlife viewing, and photography.
• Recommended Scenic Stops:
  • South Rim Road: This scenic drive takes you along the rim of the canyon, with several overlooks offering breathtaking views of the sheer cliffs and the river far below.
  • Gunnison Point: One of the most popular viewpoints in the park, offering stunning views of the canyon and the river, as well as a short, easy trail to explore the area.
  • Painted Wall: The tallest cliff in Colorado, rising 2,250 feet above the Gunnison River, known for its striking patterns and colors created by ancient volcanic activity.
• Photography Tips: "Black Canyon of the Gunnison is a place of stark contrasts - capture the dramatic drop-offs, the play of light and shadow on the canyon walls, and the vibrant colors of the rock formations. Sunrise and sunset are the best times for photography, with soft, golden light and long shadows that highlight the canyon's unique features."

Lunch Stop: Montrose, CO

• Lunch Recommendations:
  1. Horsefly Brewing Company: A local favorite offering a range of craft beers and pub fare, including burgers, sandwiches, and salads, with a relaxed, casual atmosphere.
  2. Camp Robber: Known for its creative, Southwestern-inspired dishes, including fresh seafood, steaks, and vegetarian options, served in a warm, inviting setting.
  3. The Stone House: Offering a menu of classic American dishes with a focus on fresh, local ingredients, served in a historic building with a cozy atmosphere.

Afternoon: Scenic Drive Back to Denver

• Overview: After lunch, begin your return journey to Denver, a 4.5-hour drive through the stunning landscapes of central Colorado. This scenic route takes you through the heart of the Rocky Mountains, offering opportunities to stop and explore along the way.
• Recommended Stops:
  • Curecanti National Recreation Area: Located along the route, this area offers beautiful views of Blue Mesa Reservoir, Colorado's largest body of water, as well as opportunities for boating, fishing, and hiking.
  • Monarch Pass: A high mountain pass along U.S. Route 50, offering stunning views of the Continental Divide and opportunities for hiking and photography.

Evening: Arrive back in Denver in the early evening, where you can enjoy a final dinner at one of the city's many excellent restaurants and reflect on your journey through Southwest Colorado.

• Dining Recommendations:
  1. Mercantile Dining & Provision: A trendy spot offering a menu of contemporary American dishes with a focus on seasonal, local ingredients, served in a stylish, modern setting.
  2. Guard and Grace: Known for its steaks, seafood, and craft cocktails, with a sleek, upscale atmosphere and a menu that highlights local flavors and ingredients.
  3. Snooze, an A.M. Eatery: A popular spot for breakfast and brunch, offering creative dishes and a fun, retro-inspired atmosphere.

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Conclusion

Reflections from William Stanek:
"This road trip through Southwest Colorado has taken us on a journey through some of the most diverse and breathtaking landscapes in the American West. From the towering dunes of Great Sand Dunes National Park to the ancient cliff dwellings of Mesa Verde and the dramatic mountain passes of the Million Dollar Highway, each stop has offered a unique glimpse into the history, culture, and natural beauty of this remarkable region. Hui Cha and I have always been captivated by the contrasts of Southwest Colorado - the way the high desert meets the mountains, the way history is etched into the land, and the way the landscapes seem to tell a story of their own. We hope this guide inspires you to explore these incredible places, to connect with the rich history and stunning beauty of the Southwest, and to create memories that will last a lifetime."